Day 18: Modena
At 4 Madonne Casseifico dell'Emilia, we learned so much about parmigiano reggiano. It is often referred to as the king of cheese because it possesses the perfect balance between salty, sweet and bitter taste. Although there is some incorporation of machinery in the cheese process, most of the production is still handled and done by hand. There is so much that goes into creating those iconic cheese wheels, from the laborious stirring of curds to ensure proper consistency, to the precise packing technique to prevent air bubbles from developing in the cheese. There is also embedded patterns and stamps on the cheese itself to verify that it is truly parmigiano reggiano. There are no additives or preservatives in their products...just a whole lot of salt for the aging process. The cheese wheels are brushed and flipped frequently to prevent mold and to promote moisture retention.
Only at the tasting is when you really appreciate all the education. At 12 months, you have a soft, mild cheese resembling a firm mozzarella stick. Give it another 6 months and you begin to see crystals develop that changes the taste and texture of the cheese. You then notice a unique sweetness in the parmigiano reggiano at 24 months. By 36 months, you are left with a more dry but very complex cheese unlike any other. This unpasteurized goodness is not the same back in the states. You can only understand this magnificent specialty if you taste it right in Italy.
The balsamic vinegar tour in the afternoon was just as fascinating. Acetaia Giusti happens to be the most ancient balsamic vinegar making organization, dating all the way back to the 17th century. They still use many of the original French oak barrels to make vinegar to this day. Very similar to cheese making, what separates good vinegar from exceptional vinegar is the dedication to the growth of excellent grapes; proper aging environment related to type of oak barrels, humidity and temperature; and lastly patience and time. With the absence of additives and thickening agents, high quality balsamic vinegar can be left to age indefinitely. There is also a precise method of blending. Due to the natural effects of evaporation, barrels are regularly replaced with other blends of balsamic vinegar or "must" they call it, as it ages. Within time, the master taster will decide when the vinegar has the appropriate levels of acidity and sweetness to be considered balsamic vinegar from Modena.
In the tasting room we sampled several vinegars, including the 25 year old bottle. We were blown away by how sweet some of samples were. Back at home, we would reduce it and add a little bit of sugar. These vinegars are clearly superior that no additional sweetener is needed. The older bottles that have aged longer like the 25 year one has a distinct oak taste. We will be sure to keep our eyes opened for this brand, as well as the official emblems and seals that signify authenticity.
It was a late lunch at La Tagliatella. We ordered two pastas, with the first being tagliatelle tossed with well seasoned porcini mushrooms and parsley. The second dish was tortello, which looked like oversized tortellinis but stuffed with cheese and spinach, similar to raviolis. It was drizzled with olive oil and garnished with some sage, a combination we wholeheartedly love. We are very impressed with the pasta dishes here in Modena, almost more so than Rome. With our stomachs full and our minds slowly going into a food coma, we returned to our airbnb for a much needed nap.
In the evening, we kept it very light. We had a few drinks at a lively bar called Rest Cocktails and Dreams. Here's another new drink we discovered: mix tequila, mezcal, tomato juice, hot pepper sauce and some lime juice to create the pepperita, a hybrid of the margarita and bloody mary. While we enjoyed our drinks, there was a live band playing some old school rock hits of AC/DC and Motley Crue. It was quite amusing watching a handful of people singing out loud with the band.
We left the 80's party to grab a late night salad at Caffeteria Giusti. The insalata dei Giusti had arugula, romaine lettuce, radicchio, shaved fennel, cold cooked tuna and hard boiled eggs. We were shocked how delicious the salad was. Most restaurants in Italy present you condiments like balsamic vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper to dress your salad. We actually prefer this way because we can control the proportions and adjust the condiments according to the taste of veggies. And to our surprise, just a few meters away is Hosteria Giusti, where we will be having lunch the next day. Both shops were once associated with Acetaia Giusti, where we had our balsamic tour earlier in the afternoon. The Giusti family actually started in the deli industry but later sold their business to focus on balsamic vinegar. Although the current owners are not related to the Giusti family, they kept the store virtually the same to continue tradition and retain the iconic look still seen today. We will report to you our experience at this supposedly 4 seat restaurant, hidden within the deli store.
