Day 2: Paris
Day 2 was full of many culinary treats for us foodies. After a small 20 minute run in the morning, we headed to the famous Du Pain et Des Idées for breakfast. Unfortunately it was closed Christmas week when we were last in Paris. Judging by the long line that morning, it's easily one of the busiest bakeries/pastry shops in town. To our surprise, the baker himself Christophe Vasseur took our order. From what we learned in Anthony Bourdain's The Layover show, Monsieur Vasseur is one of very few bakers that still makes the old school bread called le pain des amis. There is a marvelous contrast between the dark, crunchy crust and its soft, dense and spongy interior...unlike traditional baguettes and boules.
We also sampled his croissants and signature l'escargot pastries. Named after the gastropod's spiral shape, it's actually not filled with snails but other common baking ingredients like chocolate chips, fresh fruit and pistachio. All you need is one bite and you'll realize all his baked goods are made with great care and attention.
A short walk from the bakery is the Saint Martin Canal. It's truly one of our favorite parts of Paris because it's away from all the tourist attractions. You really feel part of the community as you eat breakfast peacefully by the water. We then ventured to a local park called Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Apparently there is a cave and waterfall but it was no where to be found that day. We walked to all the corners of the park before returning to our airbnb for a much needed nap.
Feeling somewhat recharged, we made our way to Les Cocottes for lunch in the Eiffel Tower area. The restaurant was very warm, even with their bulky oversized fan on. We tried to ignore the heat and enjoy our excellent savignon blanc and rosé wine that the bartender recommended. The two dishes we ordered were not what we expected. The egg salad was very outside of the box. The greens were pureed into a cold soup with a semi cook egg in the center, topped with bacon bits. It doesn't sound appetizing but man the combo really works. We continued the langostine theme from the other night, this time stuffed into a traditional ravioli with goat cheese and some sort of parmesan foam broth. Both of these dishes were perfect for a hot day, as they were served mildly warm. We really wanted to stay for another drink but the heat was really get to us. Man what a difference when we stepped outside. It was 10 to 15 degrees cooler. A wonderful, welcoming cool breeze greets you. That's another thing with France and some other European countries. There are a number of restaurants and bars that do not invest in air conditioning or due to the old infrastructure, the air circulation is inefficient. We are just hoping tonight's restaurant has a more managable room temperature.
Last winter, we skipped our cruise tour on the Seine because it was bitterly cold. What was nice was our tickets were good for a year from the date of purchase. We were hesitant at first about doing the boat tour because we spotted a few dark clouds. The weather in Paris can be quite unpredictable but it actually turned out to be a great day for a cruise. Yes it's very touristy but you get to see Paris in a different way. The boat covers all the major attractions like the Eiffel tower and the Louvre all in an hour. The only thing we needed were some glasses of wine!
Before dinner, we stopped at L'Avant Comptoir de la Mer. We try to avoid returning to places we have been to in the past but this place has a special place in our hearts. The servers and bartenders are really friendly and don't mind speaking English to you. Three things to keep in mind when you eat and drink here. One: they only serve wine. Two: there's no wine menu, so ask the servers for recommendations. Lastly, three: the food menu is handwritten on the chalkboard or if you look up at the ceiling, there are printed cards with pictures of the food items. Our beloved bartender, Eric remembered us from last winter and happily served us some glasses of rosé and champagne.
It's dinner tine. We booked reservations at Frenchie, to us what it felt like several months ago. This 8 seat restaurant just received their first Michelin Star and seemed to have built a following over the past 10 years. All the five dishes were really unique, all pushing the boundaries of French cuisine. We had two types of fish, one similar to tuna and the other was monkfish. Both were cooked well with their flavorful sauces expertly balanced with fresh herbs, greens and veggies. There was also guinea fowl cooked two different ways. One tasted like chicken, while the other had the fattiness flavor of duck. You wouldn't have thought they were the same bird! Even the two desserts at the end were amazing. Our servers that night were wonderful, very personable. Francois was really interested in our adventures in Europe and was quite glad to hear we have been to his hometown, Rennes in northwest France. Unfortunately the Chef was not present at the restaurant that night but we did spot him earlier at his fast food joint, Frenchie to Go. We had an inkling it was him but we weren't brave enough to approach him.
Our next city is Brussels, home to the waffles. We are also particularly excited for the mussels and fries, as well as the delicious Belgium beer. We are sure the 2 days is Brussels will go by quickly. Stay tuned!