Day 13: Venice Part 3
Bar All'arco was so good the first time that we returned for a second round of cicchetti. The sandwiches that day: thinly sliced pork, white fish and pepperoni with cole slaw. One thing that makes this place very special is that they make the cicchetti and sandwiches right in front of you. And they make it very often, so it's fresh. If we had to choose one eatery that you can't miss in Venice, it's Bar All'arco.
On our way to lunch, we discovered a nice little bar called Black Jack. It had several black and white pictures of divas from the golden years like Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. We chatted with a gentleman from Pittsburgh, now living in Houston, Texas with his wife who is originally from Lima, Peru. We actually had a few things in common. They were an interracial couple. They travel quite frequently and they too dream of living abroad one day. His wife was shopping at the time...so he decided to grab a beer and stay cool at a bar. We don't typically talk to strangers but it was entertaining to meet someone who understands and shares the same interests and dreams as we do.
When in Venice, do drink the prosecco. All the grapes are grown, harvested and made in the Veneto region, just 30 miles north from here. We were originally thinking of renting a car to explore the different vineyards. But we decided it would be too time consuming for just a day trip. The prosecco doesn't have to travel too far and we were content just having a few glasses at the local bar.
Lunch at Vini Da Arturo was another memorable meal. Like Da Romano, this place has attracted many celebrities like Barbara Streisand and Tom Cruise. We came for three things in particular. The first is eggplant cooked with vinegar, topped with pine nuts. Then there is the delectable mushrooms with potatoes, one of Jackie's favorite combinations. Lastly was the specialty of the house, the scaloppini. The pork chop is pounded very thin, dipped in egg wash and flour before pan fried to a beautiful golden brown color. The key ingredient is the addition of vinegar at the end while it's hot; giving it just the right amount of acidity. Another place you don't want to miss when in Venice.
The very last stop of the night was Ristorante Al Covo. We made reservations many months in advance because it's considered one of the best restaurants in Venice. Though it appears to be a fine dining setting, they still manage to retain the small neighborhood feel. The family who runs the ristorante are very friendly and personable. We sat next to a couple from NYC, who have clearly been to Venice many times. They were giving us recommendations on dessert and we haven't even gotten drinks yet.
We knew the 2 dishes to order, the spider crab roe and fish of the night, sole. The special pasta of the day, fettuccine with lobster in a seafood red sauce also sounded irresistible. One thing we had to keep in mind was the owner, Cesare believes in eating seafood without the need of seasoning and lemon. Our preference is just a touch of salt and pepper. However everything we ate was fresh so we understand where the owner is coming from. We gave in and also enjoyed a piece of chocolate cake made by the owner's wife, Diane.
It was a pleasure meeting the whole family. We learned Diane is from Texas and many of her desserts are from family recipes. She's able to incorporate Italian ingredients to her desserts like olive oil and local fruits. The son Lorenzo who was serving that night, gladly offered a dessert wine as a way to thank us for dining at their restaurant. He was happy to hear we are visiting Modena in a few days and provided some personal suggestions on where to eat. We took a nice group photo at the end, another one we can add to the many pics with our favorite chefs.
It's sad to say our stay in Venice is over. But we are ready to move on to Rome, another city with so much history. Yes we are going to see the typical attractions like the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps. But more importantly, we are excited to see what the food and drink culture is like in Rome.