Chez L’ami Jean
Chez l'ami Jean has made quite a name for themselves since opening in 2002. This former rugby pub is featured in many city guides, restaurant reviews and travel shows. Owner/chef Stéphane Jego's food can be described as inventive, hearty, soulful and rich, all delivered in a bistro style-like setting. He is seen as a rebel, part of a group of chefs and restauranteurs that reject the Michelin standards and expectations of excessively polished silverware and immaculate table cloths.
You instantly acknowledge the high level of execution and presentation in all the dishes. His foie gras is divinely wrapped with perfectly cooked calamari. The squid's body acts like a wall, as you notice it's tentacles peeking over. The generous portions of pork chop and cod are appropriately presented on rustic stones as plates. For the size and the amount of food you receive, you definitely get what you pay for.
Unfortunately some people may find it redundant that they use the same ingredients and sauces in several of their dishes. The richness in their style of cooking can be interpreted as an overwhelming abundance of sodium. In our opinion, the pepperoni on the pork chops and foie gras was unnecessary. A simple addition of greens or even potatoes in le canard (duck soup) could have balanced out the saltiness.
There is no question that the star dish is the riz au lait. The recipe passed down from Jego's grandmother has everything you want in rice pudding: its sweet, creamy and thick. The dulce de leche gives the dessert that extra hint of sweetness. The pistachio brittle brings in a crunchy component. And the addition of creame anglaise provides his signature richness. Le riz au lait itself is worth the visit!
Pictured: Foie gras and calamari
Notable Mentions
Paris by Mouth: "Chef Stéphane Jego was an early star of the bistronomie movement, elevating traditional bistro fare with the sort of techniques and emphasis on quality ingredients that one might expect from finer dining. His simple, cheerful dining room at Chez l’Ami Jean has not wavered in quality, even though the dining room is filled with visitors expressing delight in foreign tongues. Meat and fish options abound (vegetarians beware), but wild game is the star when in season."
The World’s 50 Best - “ A traditional bistro where chef Stéphane Jégo stays true to the legacy of his 1930s establishment, serving French classics with soul to diners sat on red-leather banquettes. Regulars would hate to find the place overrun but Jégo has legions of fans. He marries tradition with invention in his generous plates: the terrine de champagne comes in a huge wedge studded with pistachio; and veal and Jerusalem artichoke hide under a quilt of truffle shavings. The atmosphere can get as hearty as the food so come prepared.”
CN Traveler: “Stéphane Jego is among the visionaries of the early bistronomy movement, which in this case simply means the environment is anything but stuffy, the food is hearty (think American hearty, not your usual French hearty), the ambience is rollicking, and the food has the technique and presentation of fine-dining establishments without the exorbitant prices.”
Time Out: “This long-running Basque address is an ongoing hit thanks to chef Stéphane Jégo. Excellent bread from baker Jean-Luc Poujauran is a perfect nibble when slathered with a tangy, herby fromage blanc - as are starters of sautéed baby squid on a bed of ratatouille. Tender veal shank comes de-boned with a lovely side of baby onions and broad beans with tiny cubes of ham, and house-salted cod is soaked, sautéed and doused with an elegant vinaigrette. There's a great wine list, and some lovely Brana eau de vie should you decide to linger.”
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